Coach’s Four Corners fury

The latest collection by Stuart Vevers for Coach was a great powerful statement by the UK designer who has his finger most firmly on the cultural pulse of today’s American youth.


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Coach - Fall-Winter2018 - Womenswear - New York - © PixelFormula


Talk about realizing your American Dream. Vevers left Loewe three years ago as a respected talent capable of rewiring the DNA of a major Spanish brand. Today, however, he is a rock star designer – who has made Coach into a punchy must-have brand. He manages to make commercial clothes that have artistic clout – the stylistic sweetspot.
 
No doubt about it, it helps to have a big budget, which Stuart splurged this season on another massive set built in Basketball City on East River, creating a faintly creepy internal forest, replete with muddy paths and faded leaves. Ideal setting for this darkly bohemian statement.
 
Out on the urban trail this fall, the Coach gal will wear bandana print dresses; cowboy boots with rivets; ranch-style blazers; and fringed rodeo jackets. Everything accessorized to the max by razor, mood and ram rings; feather charms; Taos gemstones; and woven ranch-hand leather belts.
 
The guys were all suitably devil may care, slicked up for some after-party action in western trench coats, signature hoodies, natty embellished shearling jackets and the odd track pant to keep things sufficiently cosmopolitan. All of this handsomely styled by veteran Karl Templer in a great set by Stefan Beckman. Even the weather shone favorably on Vevers, as outside the show a group of young artists executed a Manga-like East Village mural for the passing fashionistas.
 
Vevers also whipped up plenty of product; vital for what is still essentially a baggage brand. His tooled leather backpacks with lariats, often accompanied by matching pouches, clutches and wallets all looked great.
 
“A spectral charm: Goth and supernatural toughness makes for a twisted, dark romance…. Exploring the tension between New York City and the American Southwest. Nature transposed to the urban creates a new vocabulary,” opined Vevers in his program notes. And, one could easily see these clothes at home in the legendary landscapes of the Four Corners. The only thing missing was Gary Cooper and Grace Kelly.
 
All together, another punchy and telling fashion statement from this North-of-England man transported to the West Village. Talk about a neat fashion victory.
 

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